From historic landmarks (above and below the ground) and whisky shops to quirky boutiques, locally celebrated pubs and, of course, the Castle, Edinburgh’s Old Town is like an ancient city within itself. However, for foodies and visitors alike, the Old Town holds perhaps the most concentrated quarter of Edinburgh’s best restaurants too, each benefiting from atmospheric settings that can only be found in the very oldest part of the city.
Thanks to the undulating landscape of the Old Town (it’s built on the ‘tail’ of the Castle’s volcanic rock, so the whole area is largely sloping wynds, closes and cobbled streets) there are many unexpected street levels and bridges to explore in order to find the tastiest eateries. To make your search a little easier though, we’ve complied our top five restaurants in Edinburgh’s Old Town. But, of course, this is just a guide to some of the favourites; don’t be afraid to follow your nose off the beaten path!
The WitcheryThe very last building before you reach the Castle at the top of the Royal Mile, The Witchery has been an Edinburgh institution since it opened over 30 years ago. Top restaurateur James Thomson has earned much praise and even more awards for his atmospheric approach to luxury dining. With a sense of mystery and opulence, this 16th century cellar dining room (and ‘Secret Garden’ outdoor dining area for the summer months) has attracted stars from around the world and hosts a locally unparalleled wine cellar of over 1,000 bottles. The food is divine, and Scottish too, from Angus beef to lobster and rock oysters, all prepared and presented immaculately. This is fine dining at its most magical, and fear not, The Witchery does a superb a la carte and pre-theatre menu too.
MerchantsHidden beneath George IV Bridge, you would perhaps never find Merchants unless you knew it was there. To access it, head to the statue of Grey Friar’s Bobby, and then turn the corner and down Candle Maker Row. Halfway down you’ll come to a little lane on the right-hand side with a red door announcing its presence.
Its very location sums up one of the finest points of Edinburgh’s Old Town; that is how enjoyable it is to explore and discover new treats. Despite it being hard to find though, Merchants has carved out a niche of its own amongst Edinburgers and visitors alike, thanks its no-nonsense approach to Scottish cuisine, with an international twist. The menu is changed regularly, the atmosphere is relaxed and the food and wine are both well chosen and complimentary.
After a meal here, you can easily just stroll down The Grassmarket area of town too, full of bars to see the night away in.
CreelersScottish produce has always been amongst the finest in the world. Any food aficionado could tell you that the quality found in Scotland’s natural ingredients, from beef, lamb and salmon, to lobster, oysters, cheese, cream, strawberries and much more, is second-to-none. One Old Town restaurant that has taken this unique quality and ran with it is Creelers. Originally from the Isle of Arran (and still with a restaurant there too), Creelers can be found in Hunter Square next to the Tron Kirk.
Very much a seafood restaurant, where else can you order a dish that has been caught by the restaurateurs very own fishing boat, smoked in their own smokehouse and then delivered straight to chef?
For possibly the best selection of seafood available in Scotland, you can’t beat Creelers. From Loch Duart to the Kintyre Penninsula, the best seafood and fish has been sourced from all around Scotland, and is cooked to a level that does the raw ingredients a glorious justice.
Dubh PraisAnother tricky restaurant to find (after Merchants that is), Dubh Prais has been subtly winning around fans since it opened in 1988. Found right in the centre of the Royal Mile, and pronounced “Doo Prash”, the intimate cellar restaurant is perhaps as Scottish as dining gets. Friendly, romantic and packed full of the greatest hits of Scotland’s natural larder, Dubh Prais hits the mark on all counts and delivers an unpretentious insight into how wonderful simple Scottish fare can actually be.
Though changing regularly, expected the menu to have its share of meaty game dishes, with sides of haggis and seasonal vegetables a staple. Add to this herbs grown in the restaurateurs very own herb garden and you start to get a picture of how welcoming this restaurants gets. Of course, having the owner always on hand to recommend the perfect accompanying wine (or whisky) is handy too.
A full a la carte menu is available and Dubh Prais is a great place to stop for a memorable lunch too, just up the Mile from the John Know House, look out for the black cooking pot above the door.
La GarrigueNot quite as established as its peers on this list, La Garrigue stands apart for another reason though. Where much of Edinburgh’s best cooking focuses on wholesome and hearty Scottish fare, this bright and airy restaurant delivers a little bit of France to Edinburgh’s Old Town. More than that, the restaurant specialises in cuisine from the Languedoc region France and is a refreshingly modern bistro which should be experienced for the views alone if nothing else. Found on Jeffrey Street (just off the Mile opposite the World’s End pub) La Garrigue really is on the very edge of the Old Town, with splendid views across Waverley Station to the New Town and Calton Hill.
Considered to be the most authentic French restaurant in town, and with a level of service which is almost unparalleled in town (yet never too stuffy), La Garrigue is just the place to tuck into favourites like cassoulets, lemon tarts, sumptuous onion soups and many other delights.